in the Uffizi is Leonardo's Gabriel. His stare is intense, and the folds of his blood-red gown weigh him to the earth. He kneels and makes a gesture of benediction. I drop a curtsy, but he waves me on and I realise I'm too old to be Mary and too young for Elizabeth. Next to me is a Japanese girl in frilly shorts and thigh-high socks. Her head is bent and there's a lily in her hand.
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